A RE-ENACTMENT OF AN EARLY SURVEY.
While I had a chance I thought I'd better grab it, and get an up-date on the same questions posed all those years ago in 1983, `How do you breed a winner' As before a group of guys were asked to give their views, and there was only one who had the chance to have a second bite of the Cherry namely Dr. Keith Hammett, and as yet only Graham Carey is left to answer the questions they posed all those years ago. I realise Graham's work with the NDS doesn't give him much free time, so as soon as he sends in his answers I'll be adding them to this report as well.
BREEDING THE KING OF
HYBRIDS 2008.
HOW DO YOU SELECT A SEED PARENT?
Keith Hammett:
I look for specific clearly defined traits and the ability to produce good
quantities of seed. If the parent is used sequentially I build up some
appreciation of its combining ability.
John Menzel:
Looking for parents is very important because the habits and qualities of those
selected are usually reflected in the off spring such as Keeping Qualities of
tubers, Stem, Growth Habits and Colour. One must also consider compatibility of
parents and take into account Male & Female dominance. Some cultivars are not
good seed parents for me such as Figurine and Hamari Accord but are used as
pollen parents.
Dick Ambrose:
A firm stem, a full number of petals, and vigour. I should pay more attention to
tuber making ability, and tuber keeping. I like to cross varieties of similar
form with differing backgrounds such as a good English or Australian with a good
local. Not sure why. Guess I am trying to bring something new to the gene pool.
DO YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC VARIETIES FROM WHICH YOU TAKE SEED?
IF SO PLEASE NAME THEM?
Keith:
I have quite a number of quite distinct breeding lines. Many of my parents are
coded selections which are never disseminated. They are simply steps on the road
to a specific goal.
John:
My planting plan is my breeding plan which is planting desired cultivars with
desired cultivars. I always keep in mind when collecting seed those that are
Male dominant because it has been found that the seed from these do not
geminate. Zorro and Bonaventure are the parents of Winkie Colonel. This
combination has produced both Red & Gold Seedlings.
Dick:
For the long haul Reginald Keene was the best seed parent I have used. Great
flowers in medium semi-cactus form with wide array of colors. Gordie Leroux also
used this a great deal. Drawbacks are it is difficult to get seed as the petals
are difficult to remove from flower head and mould easily. Tuber making and
keeping also a problem. In recent years Hillcrest Margaret, Mary's Jomanda,
Clearview David, Valley Porcupine, and Camano Susan have given interesting
results. In the larger varieties the Jupiter’s and Kidd's Climax have been the
easiest to get seed from. Not many kept for a second look.
HOW DO YOU POLLINATE?
Keith:
I plant selected parents in isolation and allow insects to do the job. They are
far more efficient and diligent.
John:
Pollination is always left to the bees. Pollination is controlled because I use
curtains to channel the bees up & down rows making sure pollination is with the
right types. I believe “Put like types with like types, and you get a Type you
will like”. This is as affective as isolated plantings.
Dick:
Some hand crosses and mostly by bee. Only a few of the hand crosses gave
anything worth looking at. I must be a poor matchmaker.
DO YOU REMOVE THE SEED FROM THE POD BEFORE THE POD IS
COMPLETELY DRY?
Keith:
No I remove the pods from the plant when it is no longer possible to squeeze out
any moisture and dry the pods in bags over the hot air output from an enclosed
log fire heater. As the pods dry they are broken up by hand within the bags.
This is happening right now.
John:
I collect the pod when fully closed and still showing some traces of green. The
pods are opened and provided the seed is dark they are then laid out in foam
boxes lined with paper hand towel. This assists the drying process. When dry the
seeds are stored complete with the dry husks which act like a drying agent
keeping the seeds in good condition.
Dick:
Most times, if any rot or mould is present I remove the seed immediately. If the
pods appear clean I try to let them dry. I confess the more choice I think the
seed is the quicker it comes out of the pod.
HOW DO YOU PLANT YOUR SEED, IN A TRAY, INDIVIDUAL CUPS,
DIRECTLY IN THE GARDEN, OR BY USING SOME OTHER METHOD?
Keith:
In trays, but for traits such as dark foliage the seedlings are grown hard in
full light and green leafed seedlings are culled. Selected seedlings are planted
individually into 7cm tubes until large enough to be planted into the field.
John:
I prefer to plant seeds into individual pots (50mm – 2 Inch) because when
trans-planting it reduces the stress because when grown in a tray roots appear
to be damaged when dividing. They are planted out when they reach the two leaf
stage.
Dick:
In a tray and I transplant into individual cells within a
week of germination.
DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE MONTH IN WHICH YOU START YOUR SEED?
Keith:
I sow sequentially between August and October. (February–April for you)
John:
August is a good time to start seedlings giving plenty of time for the
development of a good plant. I do some direct seeding and this is done late
September when the ground starts to warm up but one seems to have three plants
in the one place from time to time.
Dick:
Somewhere in the March 20 to April 20 range.
HOW SELECTIVE ARE YOU IN THAT CRUCIAL FIRST YEAR?
Keith:
Very.
John:
I like to see a seedling of a fully double type to have at least 12/13 rows of
petals and of good form. I always give them a second chance. Those that flower
late in the season are kept if there is good petal form and in most cases the
petal count improves in the second year.
Dick:
Never selective enough. The second year is where I really
get nasty.
DO YOU BREED FOR A SPECIFIC OBJECTIVE, SUCH AS SMALL
DECORATIVE OR GIANTS?
Keith:
Of course, without a clearly specified goal one does not have a breeding
programme.
John:
This is reflected in the planting plan because I seem to keep seed from most
types. My main interest is in the Giants and the Pom Pon closely followed by the
Ball Type.
Dick:
50-50. roughly half, I have an objective in mind. I always plant a flat of mixed seed of unknown parentage on the chance of something new or different showing up.
DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE TO WOULD-BE SEEDLING GROWERS?
Keith:
Do you mean seedling growers? or potential breeders? For potential breeders,
clearly define your objective. Collect as wide a gene, pool within the
parameters you have defined, as possible. Do not cross two cultivars from the
same breeder. I have found it beneficial to cross cultivars from different
countries to maximise genetic diversity.
Do not expect instant success. Think in terms of selecting plants which are a
step closer towards your goal that were their parents. After adequate testing,
use some of these as parents in other combinations.
John:
Seedlings can be grown by the smallest enthusiast and great satisfaction can be
gained by following the basis guidelines of selecting parents. This can be done
by hand pollination or letting the Bees do it. Just remember all your favourite
cultivars were once a seed. Developing worth while cultivars is extremely
satisfying & my advice to all is to grow a few seedlings, it’s exciting.
Dick:
Have fun. Enjoy the wonder of each day during the blooming
of new varieties. If you want to grow show varieties it really helps to show and
judge so as to have a realistic perspective.
DO YOU CONSIDER MOST DAHLIAS ARE
UNABLE TO PRODUCE SEED UNLESS ANOTHER VARIETY IS PRESENT?
Keith:
This is well established for the hybrid garden dahlia (Dahlia variabilis Hort.
syn D. pinnata x coccinea). Some of the species are self compatible.
John:
For good results one needs to have that second cultivar.
Dick:
I know some can but think mot seed produced is a cross of
different varieties.
IN WHAT AREA DO YOU THINK DAHLIAS HAVE BEEN NEGLECTED?
Keith:
Most Dahlia societies are only interested in exhibiting severed heads in vases
and only part of the available range of shapes and colours is considered
acceptable for exhibition. Some countries are better in accommodating the full
range of types than others. In countries where leaves are removed from the stems
for exhibition the focus has been further narrowed to just the bloom. Garden
Dahlias are generally not treated with the respect they deserve and in
consequence plant habit and leaf shape have generally been ignored by enthusiast
breeders. Equally the challenge of growing Dahlias as pot plants has not been
met by exhibitors. Either it has proven too hard or has simply not been treated
with respect. In as much as a Dahlia produces a tuber during each growing
season, the production of a first class potted dahlia plant is a worthy
challenge of horticultural skill. The environment within the potting medium
changes as the tubers develop and this is much harder to handle than for a plant
with fibrous roots.
John:
Dahlia growing should be encouraged and those who only believe they should be
grown for Shows have a very narrow view. More could be done by specialist
societies to encourage the Dahlia in the Home Garden because I see the garden
type of Dahlias a “Stepping Stone Dahlia”. The Home Gardener will then develop
an interest and slowly make the graduation to level some are expecting.
Dick:
I haven't grown an open centred dahlia in many years. However I find them to be among my favourites in other gardens and in shows. I suspect they need more attention from all of us.
>>><<<
Thank you gentlemen as soon as I get Graham's answers these will be added to this report. I was very tempted to add my two pennyworth, but thought better of it, perhaps I will before I reach that inevitable time when I won't be able to. I must explain due to a mix up of a surname, and I won't say who's because it isn't any problem now as the mistake has been rectified. As I had a brief look at the article again I realised how very useful it is for anyone contemplating breeding the wonderful flower.
See you at the trials. Ken Stock.