DAHLIA STORAGE METHODS  Supplied by Loney Kennedy.

I've got a mate in America called Lon, least that's what I used to call him before I found out he was some kind of wizard when it comes to dividing dahlia clumps. Now I call him Mr. Kennedy because that is what any surgeon worth his salt is called. I've tried the operation many times, but so far I've made less than a perfect job of it. Ideally I wished Loney lived up the road then I could get the ratio of bleach to water correct. Guess what American gallons must be different to ours as this year I managed to keep my tubers perfect in way of no rot, but unfortunately the ones I bleach dipped are remaining dormant no matter how far I turns up the soil heating cable. Like all things in life you live and learn, eventually. Any way all this is irrelevant in our quest to make life easy at saving stock for the following year. Luckily for you guys Loney took the trouble to supply me with photos of each stage of the operation, and the tuber he used was know other than one of his 2007 seedlings, now how's that for confidence.

Let him tell us in his own words how he does this "One into Seven" dividing trick.

THE PROCEDURE.

	The tools for the job.		An example of a typical dahlia clump before dividing.

The equipment below is needed to prepare tubers for any of the three main types of storage.

1.   5 gallon plastic bucket for the bleach soak
2.   Liquid Bleach for the solution (1 cup bleach to 4 gallons water)
3.   1 gallon nursery pot to segregate varieties while soaking
4.   Newspaper lined trays to segregate them during processing.
5.   Clipboard to keep track of the number of tubers for each variety
6.   Loppers to cut dahlia stocks
7.   Florist Scissors for dividing individual tubers
8.   Ink Pencil to write names on each tuber
9.   Felt Tip Ink Pen for writing on packets or bags of tubers
10. Plastic Sandwich Wrap to encapsulate tubers
11. Masking Tape to secure wrapped tuber packets
12. Storage Bags, if using the cedar or vermiculite method
13. Lots of coffee


1. As soon as I dig my tubers I divide them into "chicken legs” or individual tubers as we call them here in the USA. I place each variety in separate 1 gallon nursery pots.

2. Next I put the gallon pots in a bleach solution to soak (one at a time) in a bleach solution to soak (1 cup of good liquid bleach in 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket) for about 10 minutes.

3. I take the container of tubers out of the bleach solution and mark each tuber with the variety's name while the tuber is wet from the solution. I use an ink pencil.

4. Then I place the tubers on a piece of newspaper, inside a tray, being very careful not to mix varieties. I use separate trays for each variety. The tubers must be dry on the outside before any type of storage; otherwise they will get mouldy and rot. I stack the trays in such away so as the air circulates over the tubers. Depending upon the conditions where you dry your tubers, it may take one day maybe 2 before they are ready to wrap in plastic sandwich wrap. Some people powder their tubers with sulphur dust at this point. I usually do not.

5. I take 3 to 6 tubers, depending on size, and carefully wrap them so none are touching another tuber and the ends of the package are sealed over to keep air out. I use a piece of plastic wrap about 3 feet long and lay one tuber onto the end of the wrap. Next fold the outer edges of the plastic wrap over the ends of the tubers only. Roll the tuber to completely cover the tuber with plastic wrap. Lay another tuber onto the sheet of plastic wrap and repeat this process. I tape the "package" when I'm done with each group and write the varieties name on the tape.

6. I then place the wrapped packs of tubers into ventilated Styrofoam boxes for storage. I get the boxes that grapes come to the supermarket in. They are free!

7. I use to store the boxes in my laundry room, but have since built an insulated storage shed. This area stays at a constant 42 degrees F. Tubers should be stored between 40 and 50 degrees F. I am not good at conversion to degrees C.

8. I check the condition of the tubers midway through storage to remove any tubers that may be rotten. I have since changed my storage method to using cedar shavings. All I do now is place all of each variety's tubers in layers, into one large ventilated plastic bag and make sure they are completely covered with cedar shavings. I write the name of the variety on the outside of each bag. This method is much faster and easier for me. Also the cedar shavings help absorb excess moisture from the tubers.

The plastic wrap works well, but is very time consuming. Some people prefer to use vermiculite instead of cedar shavings, but I do not like vermiculite, because I find it hard to control the tuber's moisture. Now I will start to divide one of my first year seedlings. They are smaller than a tuber grown clump, but defined enough to show where to cut if look closely you will see I have marked the place to cut below and above the first tuber.

	Dots mark above and below the first tuber.		The start of three tubers cut from one clump.		Operation almost complete.

	Splitting the main clump.		Where to section the split clump.		Removing individual tubers.

	Bingo just like that!

These are pictures of my Styrofoam grape boxes in my storage shelving and the bags of cedar shaving covered tubers. Note the names on each bag and labels for my stakes when planted.

Now that is how Loney separates his valuable stock for the winter, and most other North American dahlia enthusiast do like wise. Adding their own particular slant on the operation, and I mean that literally because they've almost become surgeons or magicians to carry it out successfully. I thank Mr. Loney Kennedy for taking the time to show us all just how it's done. Thanks Lon. (I still call him Lon if I've had a drink)

Oh BTW I struggled to get Mr. Kennedy to send me a photograph of himself, and the only way he'd send it was if I promised not to show it to anyone else, which I agreed to do, but I had my fingers crossed. Photo.

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